Quasi-steady currents: geostrophic/hydrostatic model, currents in the seas and oceans, wind-driven currents (Ekman model), thermohaline currents (simple diffusion model). Free waves: model of waves in deep and shallow water and its use in the interpretation of swell and tsunami, gravity-inertia and Rossby waves. Forced waves: tides, response of the sea to the air pressure and wind forcing (storm surges), thermohaline forcing and its influence on annual variability of temperature, salinity and sea level.
Exercises include a basic analysis of current and sea level time series. Besides, the series are subjected to filtering and spectral analysis.
Students will be able to
1. analyze current and sea-level data,
2. describe currents and wave dynamics of the world seas and oceans,
3. identify factors controlling spatial distribution and temporal variability of the motion,
4. solve equations of motion and continuity that capture the sea motion.
- Bowden K. F.: Physical Oceanography of Coastal Waters, Ellis Horwood, Chichester, 1983.
- Cushman-Roisin B. and J.-M. Beckers: Introduction to Geophysical Fluid Dynamics, Second Edition, Elsevier, Amsterdam, 2011.
- Knauss J. A.: Introduction to Physical Oceanography, Second Edition, Prentice Hall, New Jersey, 1996.
- Open University Course Team: Ocean Circulation, Second Edition, Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford, 2001.
- Open University Course Team: Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes, Second Edition, Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford, 2002.
- Pond S. and G. L. Pickard: Introductory Dynamical Oceanography, Third Edition, Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford, 1997.
- Stewart R. H.: Introduction to Physical Oceanography, Department of Oceanography Texas A&M University, 2003 (http://oceanworld.tamu.edu/home/course_book.htm).